(this account)

It is just a cleanliness standard. It is not required. I spent a decade in the details of automotive paint. I only covered the surface basics for paint. What I call clean for paint is an order of magnitude more dirty than a surgeon, and they are orders of magnitude more dirty than a silicon chip foundry. When it comes to making plastic stick and look pretty, an automotive painter might be helpful for framing the scope of what is possible. All I can tell you is I have a Prusa and never have these problems, so I explained my experience and methodology as to why I do as I said. Again, sorry this upsets you.

I have not had problems with glass or PEI. Your other comments indicate you tried ABS. That will never work without an enclosure, and even then, it will not work particularly well on any Cartesian machine. Sorry that illustrative examples and abstractive reasoning are offensive to you.

It can coat the inside of the drier. Use Bounty paper towels as a control when in question. Bounty are often used in automotive paint shops for a few reasons, but they are trustworthy for composition. If the two plies are separated, they make a good strain filter. That is the primary reason they are used. They also tend to be lower lint though not perfect. A tack cloth is used in the booth with controlled filtered air flow either across or down draft, so it is not a concern for perfect paint.

One of the tricks of automotive painting is to add a couple of drops of Palmolive dish soap to the water bucket used with wet sanding. It makes 3M Imperial Wet/Dry sandpaper last several times longer and acts as a mild degreaser the whole time. Any residue is cleaned in the booth stage using a special Wax and Grease Remover solvent that is the least reactive of the painting solvents. While this solvent is used extensively, still the fact that Palmolive dish soap can be used at all indicates how it is clean, consistent, and chemically irrelevant. Automotive paint reacts with many chemicals but specifically silicon is the worst problem. It causes fisheyes aka little divot like holes to form in the clearcoat. In most situations involving contamination and adhesion, silicon is the main issue that will be very persistent. It is so bad in automotive paint that in the worst cases, we turn to adding an actual silicon solution into the 2k clearcoat and trying to guess what concentration will match the problem area to level it. Otherwise, the entire job must be stripped to the raw surface and start over. Silicon issues only show up in the final wet clearcoat layer shortly after it is sprayed and leveled.

The reason why I have written all of this is to illustrate this point: the silicon is essentially floating on every underlying layer. The solvent has wet the area and the silicon just floats to the top of some filler, 2k primer, sealer, top coat color and when it gets to the clearcoat it blows a hole through it. There are two solutions. Use a two part epoxy primer that is a pain in the ass to sand, or clean the the raw surface with lacquer thinner or virgin acetone. In automotive paint, those two solvents are dangerous for causing a ton of other contamination and reactions issues. However, these are the only solvents that will take off silicon without diluting it and making the problem worse. Alcohol is a joke with no place in the automotive paint world when I was painting. I got out before water based stuff ruined the industry by making refinishing exponentially more expensive. That is only the color coat and some primers, so there may be alcohol used in some way in these, but it will not involve cleaning. Tire shine is the main source of silicon issues in automotive paint.

I have the empirical experience to know what I am looking at with cleaning and solvents. Alcohol is okay for minor issues, but think of it as constantly diluting and wiping the problem across the whole surface. Eventually, just use some virgin acetone to actually clean the thing properly. Paint is just plastic too. Each type requires a different type of tooth to mechanically bond to. With printing, I use 600 grit to lightly knock the shine off of the print plate surface. I go lighter on the textured sheet, but I only use the textured sheet with PETG because it is the only one that takes the textured pattern completely without showing layer lines. I print weekly on average, and use acetone and sandpaper around once a year. When I use glue stick, I clean the plate with dish soap after. I use alcohol in between. You will need an enclosure for ASA, ABS, and any larger PC prints regardless of the sheet or glue. Two IKEA Lack tables with legs stacked using double sided screws, then a clear shower curtain liner, and some tack nails does the job for under $50.

I would never use towels from any drier that has ever had fabric softener used in it for automotive paint. That is a contamination nightmare for me.

Disconnect from their cycle and think for yourself. The news cycle is the primary problem. It is malicious theatrics. The further I have disconnected and distanced myself, for personal reasons, I only catch the periphery, but stuff makes much more sense overall. I write my own opinion and narrative because I have the space to form it.

tendentious milieu, or mircomilieu

PLA will be better for hardware store and hobby junk. You cannot use automotive class finishes and expect them to last. Generally stick to one brand. Most paints are formulated for steel. ABS is the closest to steel in thermal properties. The expansion is the most important attribute. PLA has a different thermal profile so catalysed 2-part paints will not work very well long term. Rattle can enamel is junk by comparison, but it never fully cures like automotive paints. That property helps it stay in place longer in general. There are special adhesion promoters like bulldog for automotive stuff, but the thermal properties will still be an issue.

Pro automotive paint is 99.9% sanding and prep work. It is far more intense and rigorous than people realize. Perfection happens in the prep work. The actual paint is just a way of showing off that perfection. Mastering automotive paint is actually all about defeating yourself. Perfection is not subject to your emotions or expectations. It is right when it is perfect.

You want the highest pressure spray cans as possible. Also, if you do not used all of the can at once, flip it upside down and clear the nozzle by letting the siphon into the empty void and spraying. If you have a compressor that does not shoot out a bunch of oil or water, a cheap Harbor Freight pink gun with the nozzle of the can beside the spray gun will work wonders by atomizing the spray far more effectively.

I think we should consider adding political philosophy to the cultural zeitgeist. We are unlikely to find Plato’s lofty philosopher king in the form of low quality reality TV or musical artist celebrity.

You are solely responsible for vetting the software that you choose to run.

I do not review or care about the tools a person uses to create their projects. I appreciate the disclaimer when the person discloses their aptitude and confidence in their code.

Free software and Unix culture is a culture of hackers. Stallman’s very degree is in AI. Emacs is mostly a thing because lisp was adapted early on for AI development many decades ago.

Junk code is nothing new. X11 is notoriously bad, yet you likely have parts of it running on your hardware. Proprietary code is far far worse than anything a hacker posts as open source, yet you are running proprietary blobs on whatever device you are looking at now. Even if you are like myself with a libreboot machine, Leah readily admits that you need to run the core duo microcode if you want it to run right, and are not using that hardware for your primary device. The culture of antiAI is dogmatic nonsense. It is a tool, not a religion. It can be used harmfully or helpfully. I can’t fix stupid in anyone except myself. I do not fault anyone for what they run, the projects they share, or the background they come from. I encourage everyone to be positive and help their fellow hackers. I value participation and enthusiasm. Dogma and negativity are toxic.

I am ultra liberal. You have a right to all information, a right to skepticism, a right to error, and a right to protest in non violent forms aka the right to offend others. You do not have a right to infringe the rights of others.

This anti AI populism infringes the rights to all information and right to error if any administrative actions are taken. Your right to protest and skepticism is duly noted. If these become toxic in any ways that alter the dissemination of information, or toxic/harmful to the individual sharing information, I will remove the offending comments. If the person continues, I will escalate. I am only the janitor here. I clean up the messes. I do not matter, but neither does anyone else here. It is a community, and only the community matters. Garbage software is bog standard. Crusade against things that matter like proprietary software leveraged hardware theft and SaaS.

Thanks for sharing.

That is one of the original Ole Hanson homes. That far row are the ones on the sea cliff. Sucks because the train is just below them, and the cliffs are sedimentary marine deposition that has been uplifted on geological time scales. When it rains here in SoCal, and you hear about houses falling in landslides, this is one of those areas. None of these places are single family homes. That Ole Hanson one has six units IIRC. Only the ones on the cliff are super expensive.

They haven’t been really open source for a long time. The move away from Merlin’s configurations based software and onto custom code that only a full time dev can effectively modify was a major shot against the roots of RepRap and the community around Adrian Bowyer that Joe was a part of and got him started.

Nothing lasts forever, but the move away from open source officially marks the end of me going out of my way to purchase from them or recommend them.

Long live the kit makers and sources like LDO and Voron. The community created the 3d printing hobby, not the companies, not some guy that throws beer parties with llamas in the Czech Republic.

What stupid bullshit. There is nothing remotely close to an artificial general intelligence in a large language model. This person is a crackpot fool. There is no way for a LLM to have persistent memory. Everything outside of the model that pre and post processes information is where the smoke and mirrors exist. This just just databases and standard code.

The actual model is just a system of categorization and tensor math. It is complex vector math. That is it. There is nothing else going on inside the model. If you want to modify it, you need to recalculate a bunch of math as it relates to the existing vectors/tensor tables. All of this math is static. It can’t change. It can’t adapt. It can’t plan. It has some surprising features that one might not expect to be embedded in human language alone, but that is all this is. Try offline, open source, AI. Use Oobabooga, get models from Hugging Face, start with something like a Llama2 7B. This is not hard. You do not need a graphics card. There are lots of models that work great on just a CPU. You will need a good amount of RAM for running a really good model. A 7B is like talking to a teenager prone to lying, a 13B is like a 20 year old, a 30B at 8bit quantization is like an inexperienced late twenty-something. A 70B at 4 bit quantization is like a 30yo with a masters degree. A 70B at 4 bits will need around 14+ CPU logical cores, and 64GB of system memory to generate around 2 tokens a second, this is around 1-2 words per second and is about as slow as is practical.

Don’t believe anything you read in bullshit media about AI right now, and ignore the proprietary stalkerware garbage. The open source offline AI world is the future and it is yours to do as you please. Try it! It is fun.