

Hmmm my Heatbed goes to 100°c and I do have a Smooth surface plate around… what do you think?
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Hmmm my Heatbed goes to 100°c and I do have a Smooth surface plate around… what do you think?


I have tried using a Regular Soldering Iron to smooth out the surfaces, to not a lotta luck tho. At what temps can the Plastic Colouring be regained? Because I think I had mine set too high


The Shiny look it something I try to somewhat avoid im afraid


The main thing I’m wondering right now, is the MEK supposed to Boil? I feel like it should be, but at that point im also working with e Pressurised Vessel with very much Dangerous chemicals… thought’s?


The Prints I’m working on at the moment are rather small, I think a Torch or Heatgun could also melt other spots that aren’t supposed to be melted because of needed Surface Patterns… I wonder if there is something a bit more Controlled?


I have been using more Coarse ones thus far yes… I do wanna achieve the same colour as the original Plastic tho


I see, thats quite interessting… I do wonder since my Main Concern are Flat Top Surfaces, if putting the rough Print surface on a Heated Surface of Sorts would do something simular? Thinking like a Heated Pan or Metal Sheet?


Soooo I did actually try Vapor Smoothing with MEK Before! Infact I still got a Litre of that Stuff Around now, but even after leaving the print in there for Days at 50°C the Results where… honestly no big Changes at all…
I do suspect there is an Error in my Methodology… but turns out there isnt a lot of Info out there on Vapor Smoothing with MEK… Have you used MEK for Vapor Smoothing before?
I mean it wasn’t boiling which I thought was the issue. The setup I got rn is a Very Solid glass Jar that was fully Sealed and heated to around 50°C on my Printer bed. Left my Prints in there for between 30 Minutes to a Whole day, and while it was a lot shinier afterwards, no changes in the lines or or layers where to be seen.
Safety wise I got a Gas Mask, Fitting Clothes and some other Saftey stuff around