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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • If you’re checking for Windows 9 in order to disable features, which is what the jump straight to ten was supposed to protect against (when running a 16-bit binary for 3.1/95 on 32-bit Windows 10, it lies and says it’s Windows 98), then you’re using at least the Windows 2000 SDK, which provided GetVersion, which includes the build and revision numbers in its return value, and the revision number was increased over 7000 times by updates to Windows 2000.


  • There was a function that would give you a monotonically-increasing build number that you could compare against the build that any given feature was added in that people should have used, but there was also a function that gave you the name of the OS, and lots of people just checked if that contained a 9. The documentation explicitly said not to do that because it might stop working, but the documentation has never stopped people using the wrong function.


  • Fillets are easier to print horizontally than chamfers as they spread the acceleration (i.e. the thing that makes sharp corners bad) over the while fillet instead of just splitting it into two stages like a chamfer would.

    Chamfers are easier to print vertically than fillets as the overhang is limited and consistent.

    There’s no overhang for a horizontal corner as you’re printing the same shape onto the layer below, and no acceleration for a vertical corner as it’s entirely separate layers so the toolhead never has to follow the path of the corner.

    It sounds like you’ve read (or only remembered) half a rule. It’s not the case that either half of the rule is used the majority of the time because 3D printers are used to print 3D objects, so they always produce objects with both horizontal and vertical edges.


  • I’ve never actually needed primer to paint PLA unless the paint I was using was terrible, and wouldn’t have stuck to the primer very well, either. Tamiya’s acrylics have been entirely issue-free for me, both with a brush, or thinned and airbrushed, and they’re not that expensive, but I’ve also had acceptable results with random fifteen-year-old tubes of really cheap acrylics that were sold more as a children’s toy than a serious paint (although a lot of these tubes had gone bad in that time) and with Humbrol and Revel acrylics and enamels (although their acrylics come in pots that don’t seal very well, so it’s not that uncommon for them to be already cured when you first open them - if you’re buying liquid acrylics for model painting, Tamiya is a better choice).